Monday, March 12, 2018

Why is a stabilizer so important for machine embroidery?

You also come across explanations on machine embroidery again and again to use the note "the right / corresponding" embroidery fleece, or "well stabilize the embroidery" ...



... and sometimes do not know what exactly that means?


Why do I have to stabilize my embroidery work with embroidery fleece?

If you embroider with the machine you will probably do it on different fabrics. You stick on woven fabrics, another time on jersey - sometimes on a thinner, sometimes on a thicker fabric ...
If you were to stretch your fabrics into the embroidery hoop, you would have the problem (depending on the fabric) that your embroidery machine "stitches" holes in the fabric - or even "eats" the fabric. This means in the following that he is pressed by the needle in the gripper chamber and there provides a giant knot. This eventually causes a needle breakage very quickly and you can only prevent greater damage with the pair of scissors.

... and how can "fabric pulp" be prevented when embroidering?

To prevent such things from happening, there are special embroidery fleeces. However, getting an overview borders on a small degree. There are so many different types of embroidery fleeces available ... which can be confusing especially for beginners.
So that you do not have to "study" the peculiarities of embroidery fleeces for days, I would like to give you a short summary about embroidery fleece.
You will find mainly the following types of embroidery fleeces: Ausreißvieliese, cutting fleece, iron-on nonwovens, water-soluble nonwovens and adhesive fleece. These types are in turn in different versions, sometimes thicker, thinner, as a "film" or fabric and all that in better or sometimes in poorer quality.

Which embroidery fleeces do I need?

Basically, the "rule of thumb" applies: thick fabrics need stronger (possibly cut) fleece, thinner fabrics finer (Auseißvlies) - but nail this "Fausformel" can not be nailed. Often only trying out helps - if you are not so satisfied with an embroidery result, then maybe even think of the fleece and possibly test another one.
You do not have to buy an entire stock of nonwovens. Proved for me, for example, a Ausreißvlies (in a "medium" strength), a cutting fleece (even in one thickness), a water-soluble embroidery film, a water-soluble nonwoven fabric and some adhesive fleece (which I use only rarely).



THAT's a NO GO !!

... but in some forums is repeatedly praised - use kitchen roll papers as embroidery fleece.
Please keep away from it.
The kitchen roll flutters and clumps. This is not very nice for your embroidery machine, even during the embroidery process, because the lint can get into the machine and thus tempt your machine to work pretty fast. If you wash the finished embroidered object, then you have at best the "paper-handkerchief-forgotten-in-your-pocket" effect, if not all of your object has been destroyed, because the used kitchen roll starts to "crumble".

Where to get?

Some stick accessories dealers offer "starter packages". It usually contains several different embroidery fleeces and also embroidery threads. So you can test for you, what is your project in question. To take advantage of such an offer, I absolutely recommend it, because you get different webs in small pieces. With this you can decide for yourself which fleeces you would like to buy more later. ☺
You get embroidery fleece by the meter, on rolls or as finished blanks. Usually these embroidery fleeces have the colors white or black. Which of these is more advantageous for your project, you just have to try out. It also depends on how much and what files you prefer to stick / embroider.
By the meter has the advantage that this fleece is usually quite cheap to obtain, but you have to cut it yourself - and see how you store it. Rollers are very space-saving in storage and usually available in widths, which you can use well for two frame sizes. Of course, blanks are great because all the trimming is eliminated - but the sizes in which they are available are limited and they are a bit more expensive.

How do I recognize the quality of the embroidery stabilizor?


Are there really big differences in the embroidery webs? Yes, they exist. Nevertheless, you can recognize them relatively easily. An embroidery fleece should preferably be of uniform nature. If you hold the stabilizer against the light, then as few "stains" should be seen (ie dark and light areas - or denser and more translucent ...) but a uniform structure. Furthermore, an embroidery fleece should not warp, so that it can do justice to its task as stabilization.



...und welches Vlies ist nun für welches Material?

Woven fabrics

You can always stabilize woven or non-stretchy materials with a non-woven fabric. As already mentioned above, a stronger embroidery fleece is recommended for heavier fabrics. But you can also do that by taking a lighter fleece twice. Outlay fleece means that after embroidering, you can simply rip off the protruding fleece on the back of the embroidery. Cutting fleece can not be torn and excess residues must be cut off.

knitwear

Jersey or knit behaves differently when embroidering and should be stabilized differently. A recommendation for jersey is almost always that one should NOT strap this material into the frame, but rather use the adhesive fleece here. Adhesive fleece is usually a tear-off fleece, which has an adhesive surface with a protective paper on top. The adhesive fleece is stretched (with protective paper) into the frame with the adhesive surface facing upwards. The protective paper is removed and the fabric glued on so the fabric does not warp. The same effect can be achieved if you take ordinary Ausreißvlies and stick with a spray time glue the fabric on this fleece. Spray time adhesive is an adhesive that only has its full adhesive power for a certain amount of time and that can be washed out. Please do not use the spray time adhesive near the embroidery machine. The sticky mist can otherwise get into the machine and stick fine, mechanical parts of your machine and thus cause machine damage.
If you prefer not to work with spray glue, you can also use stapling frames, for example. These are simple frames in straight stitch with quite large stitches (5 - 8 mm stitch length are not uncommon). This holds the fabric on the fleece. A bounding frame should always be as close as possible to the subject and it will be removed from the fabric after embroidering.
Stapling frames are already available in many embroidery machines. If this is not the case with your machine, you will also get a booklet as a free download on various websites. Here you will find a large number Stapling frame for a wide variety of machines. These frames were designed by Silke Hupka of Stick-Tutorials created.

High pile fabrics

Frotteé, velvet, nicky and other high-pile fabrics are treated similarly to jersey - that is, they are not stretched in the frame, but glued (or fixed with a binding frame on the fleece). Here comes our washable film into play. Below you take an ordinary fleece (tear-off or cutting fleece) and above, then on the high-pile fabric on top of the film comes. It prevents the embroidery image in the high pile from disappearing and that individual loops penetrate between the embroidery surface.
If the embroidery on the front and back should look "nice" (in the case of towels, this is often the case, as you can see both sides), you can use the washable fabric as the lower, stabilizing fleece. Please DO NOT take a slide here, because it can not be clamped in the frame. After washing, the fleece is no longer visible because it completely dissolves. You will then only have your great embroidery visible.
It can also be helpful to work on other types of fabric with the foil attached to get a smoother embroidery pattern. For example, on sweatshirt fabric, or if a fabric is coarsely woven (e.g., linen), thereby "distracting" the needle.




FSL

Free Standing Lace (Freestanding lace), in contrast to ordinary embroidery, requires only water-soluble nonwoven - therefore, please make sure that you use water-soluble nonwoven in fabric form - NOT the film - as a carrier (stabilizing) material. The fleece should be stretched for this purpose two to three layers in the frame, as Lace is often very tight (dense) embroidered. The film can not really be embroidered because it is only "perforated". With this type of embroidery, the fleece is completely washed out of the embroidery after the embroidery process, leaving a stable embroidery object. This will give you magical, individual embroidery. These objects look beautiful, whether as a decorative hanger, Mobileé, Deko hangers, or as a flower plug.
As you can see, the use of the embroidery web is almost a little "science" and there are no definitive "rules". WHAT fleece HOW to use exactly, you can find out only by testing. Feel free to experiment a bit and find the ideal stabilization for your purpose.
I hope, I could help you with this little overview a little to give you a first overview of the "non-woven jungle".
If you have any further questions, do not be afraid to ask me about it. I'll help you, according to my possibilities, gladly.
You are welcome to share your experiences or tips on embroidery fleece here in the comments ... ☺
I hope you enjoy your embroidery work -
Beate

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